Rhythm Section

 As suspected, the Oregon and Northern California coasts don't offer anything really in the way of Internet Cafes.  Rather than do too much to try to catch you all up on the progress of events we've decided to let the pictures do most of the talking.  

Our presence on the coast has given us a nice anticipated sense of rhythm that we had only found in parts before.  The daily rituals of setting up and breaking camp, washing dishes, cooking meals, pushing a simple machine over vast stretches of land and surviving have become seemingly effortless as we move through some tremendous scenery.  There is a pulse to our days that has made each day flow as though they were one.  Being blessed with good weather doesn't hurt either.

That said, we now find ourselves in the cozy confines of our friend Nick's "Gorgeous" place in Mendocino, CA enjoying the vast comforts of a beautiful home in the incredible countryside.  

Once again we are relishing the comforts of modernity, shelter, a home garden, and reunion with a friend; and are glad for the respite.  Not to mention, those thighs really did need a day of rest after all.  

Our talented friend Nick is quite the troubadour.  "Gorgeous" has a band he calls El Paso Chapel and we arrived just in time to back him up tonight at a club in Mendo.  After a quick rehearsal yesterday and again maybe today, Jeremy and I will be his weather-beaten rhythm section.   I am surprised it is not illegal to have this much fun.

It's an adventure Dammit!!

wish us luck!!

more soon, 

David and Jeremy

Flats and Shrugs or (Tacoma to Portland)

It is becoming harder and harder to keep up with the documentation of our trip as we go along.  Since we left Twisp, WA we have encountered so much and words increasingly cease to do justice to those sights.  As we've left the relative desolation and isolation of the farther Northern reaches for the more populated Southerly cities of the Northwest, we've had an increasing amount of amazing stimuli.  (Well mostly amazing.  The greatest proportion of flat tires and other bike trouble began on this leg of the trip as well.  More population,= more towns, more glass, debris, trash, metal, roadkill, you name it.  It all pops tires. ) The following are just a few of the more notable experiences we've had in the past week.  

As we departed Twisp, we again headed out on highway 20 across the North Cascades.  It was a much easier trip from East to West.  If for no other reason than we decided, having nothing left to prove, to hitch a lift to the top of  Rainy Pass and ride the remaining 70 miles downhill back to Rockport.  A nice kid named Bobby gave us a ride in his pickup the 20 or so miles from Twisp to the top.  With that, he saved us about a day of riding.  As it turns out having that extra day proved to be invaluable.  We were able to get to Aunt Liz's house in time for her to show us the Tacoma Museum of Glass.  Liz hosts the artist in residence program there bringing in famous and burgeoning artist from around the world to work in a world class "hot shop".  We got to see it all wrap up on the final day of the summer season.  

After giving us the tour behind the scenes at the Museum, Liz treated us to a fabulous dinner.  Being at Liz's gave us a great opportunity to do some bike maintenance.  Jeremy and I have both shredded a tire and had to replace them.  We've logged 800 miles at this point and little bike issues are beginning to surface.  Nothing serious though.  

On the road to Tacoma and Portland we've slept in some increasingly strange places.  A dock in the middle of a lake and a roadside park to name a couple.  Rural America has fewer campsites than you'd expect but increasingly more food at gas stations and "drive thru espresso". Both of which have given us some essential fuel for the journey.  More logging trucks, less shoulder, and rougher roads have made the journey this leg a little less enjoyable (most notably a scary freakin' bridge across the Columbia at the Oregon border). But the stress of cities and rural logging routes is leaving us increasingly more excited to get to the coast.  

For the Past few days we've enjoyed the hospitality of friends Mason and Karen, and our friend Kevin from Burlington.  The good times here in Portland are many. We're grateful for the pit stop and more time with friends seldom seen.  We're now doing our best to take advantage of the copious resources (and bike shops) of the city before we head out to the coast.  It is likely that our blogs will be fewer and farther in between as we venture there.  Services will be sparse.  Fun will be plenty!

Thanks to all of you that follow along and keep those comments flowing.  It is great to get a little encouragement from all of you and know that people are reading.  

Things are grand for us and it is clear that we are really lucky to be able to do this.  Thanks to everyone who's helped us along the way.  

Cheers, 

David

Some photos (with mustaches)

Mamma Mazama!!!!!

As suspected, access to computers has been slim to none on our journey thus far. Blogging, as you must know by now has been at an unfortunate snails pace. But, then again so have we!! Well, actually, I suppose it is all relative. Considering this is the first tour for either of us, we feel that we're moving at a respectable clip. All in all, we traveled for about 340 miles through BC. and another 170in WA. Despite setbacks like torrential rain, missed ferry rides, long lunches, and overly friendly and talkative locals we made it through Canada to the comfortable confines of my friends Chris and Lexi's house in Eastern Washington in 6 days. In those 6 days we've seen sights too beautiful and vast to do justice to with these words.
We've been blessed most of way by good (yet unseasonably cold) weather giving us sunny vistas of the small seaside farms and towns of BC and intimidating mountains of Washington. We've ridden luxurious ferries between craggy inlets. We have eaten like 18 year old hockey players every day ( I don't know what is cheaper: gas or feeding our own internal combustion engines with the calories required to pedal 90lbs. of gear up mountains). We've seen sunrise and sunset from day to day and we feel great!!!! Impressed with our bodies' ability to adapt to all of the work, I can sense that with each passing day we're getting stronger and faster.
The greatest indication of all this was our ride on Tuesday 9/2/08. We pedaled from the foothills town of Rockport, WA across the North Cascades trail on scenic Highway 20 to Twisp, WA on the other side. This grueling son-of-a-bitch was a 108 mile journey; 70 miles of which were up a 5600 ft. pass!! This day was both our longest and steepest yet. We spent about 10 hours in saddle and the trip took from sunrise to sunset. Luckily, our destination was one of the best and most healing we could have ever asked for.
Chris and Lexi run a medicinal herb farm and have constructed an impressive modern day homestead atop the deeply beautiful hills of the Methow Valley. You can check out their products at www.ancestreeherbals.com.
We arrived at sundown to a delicious meal of their homegrown veggies and local lamb. Truly a special treat. Now, for the last two days we've been here enjoying their warmth and hospitality, as well as getting a taste of the modern homestead/small business reality. We helped to harvest oats and toured the "medicine forest" of common and rare healing herbs and plant medicines. While excited to return to the saddle and the coast, we'll be sad to leave the comforts of friends.

I think we've learned that Bike touring really forces one to enjoy any small pleasure with overwelming enthusiasm. Nothing is taken for granted. And being an unintimidating akward sight on the road, one tends to attract people's inquiry, hospitality and openness (the moustaches don't hurt either). We've also learned that you get so hungry that "even the ass-end of a skunk would taste good" (thanks Mike from Crofton).

Onward to Tacoma to visit my aunt Liz.

Cheers,

David